I've received a few more questions and messages about the 650 and I'd like to thank everyone who has visited the page so far.
I never expected an extremely busy year, so I've really let the blog slide down. But soon, I'll be posting more stuff since I did get a chance to do more mods and maintenance upkeep like oil changes and other minor things. I switched to Vance and Hines pipes a few months ago so here's the video of it. I didn't get a chance to record the original pipes so hopefully you take my word on that it sounds a lot louder than stock.
Vance and Hines Shortshots
I'll be posting pics of how this mod went along in a few days.
Monday, January 30, 2012
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Contacting Me
If you need to contact me and ask about the mods I've done or need some more clarification, you can e-mail me at rina1504@gmail.com or go to the www.vtwinmama.com forum and post in the message boards. It's an awesome site with other friendly riders offering advice on riding, maintenance, modifications, and just plain talking. Safe riding ;-)
Monday, January 17, 2011
Until February
I won't be able to do any mods on my bike for a few weeks due to moving so I'm just riding for the meantime.
Scootworks Phat Risers II
Barely flat footing the 650 can also mean barely reaching the handlebar. I notice I run out of arm room whenever I try to do some sharp or low speed turns. This is where the risers come into play. There were so many to choose from, I had a headache surfing through the web finding ones I liked. However, they all came in chrome. Barely any came in black that had the pullback I wanted, so I went with Scootworks Phat Risers II for a 2" increase in height and a 3" increase in pullback over the stock ones. The II's require the cables to be re-routed, the I's don't. I'm not sure if the III's will even fir the 650 but those would require new cables if they do.
Stock Risers
The instructions were straight forward, nothing confusing about them. I didn't follow the recommended tips though because I didn't have a bike jack to lift the front end. You have to do this to take pressure off the front end when removing the top triple tree. This would be the fasted way to re-route the cables. I was curious if I could do it a different way, without disconnecting any cables except the throttle. Well I did, and it was time consuming as hell and had me removing the throttle, brake, and headlight assemblies.
This post will be less detailed on each of the steps I took because it's just too long. I needed to use all my hands and I just wanted it done before the rain got heavy so less pics on this. Also, this one is not to be taken alone by anyone with only a very basic understanding of mechanics. It's possible, but I hope at this point you have an understanding of the proper ways to remove/start bolts, preventing stripped bolts, using a torque wrench, the proper way to evenly tighten bolts on an assembly, etc.
In whatever way you're going to approach changing out your stock risers with a required cable re-route, cutting off all the plastic ties holding the cables before anything else makes life so much easier.
Before taking off the risers, I covered the gas tank with a towel, took the headlamp mounting bolts off and covered the headlamp with an old shirt. I also removed the mirrors to make the handlebar lighter. With a screwdriver, I removed the two screws holding the throttle assembly together and removed the grip from the handlebar. Using a 5 mm allen key, I removed the brake assembly but left the brake lever attached. With 10" bolt cutters, I snipped of parts of the wiring bracket mounted underneath the top triple tree holding the brake, clutch, and throttle cables in place. I didn't need them with the new risers as the cables will lose their slack. I put the two assemblies through the triple trees. I had to push the headlamp away a bit for both pass through.
You can disconnect the throttle from either end, at the lever or at the crankcase. I did it at the crankcase, I didn't want to mess with the handle since I had already adjusted it a few times when I installed the Clevver. Disconnecting it from the crankcase, I just took the adjusting nuts off and slid the throttle cable out of the metal holder.
Comparison
After all that, then I removed the stock risers and let the handlebar rest on the gas tank. I installed it according to directions on the package and then put the handlebar on. I tightened it just enough to hold it in place and I connected everything back to the handlebar. I routed the throttle cable behind the triple trees and connected it back to the crankcase. Sounds simple, but since I was working alone, I had to keep re-positioning things so they wouldn't fall or scratch anything which was very time-consuming.
The 3" pullback helps out a lot. I can now bend my elbows and with the handlebar sitting higher, it takes a lot of stress of my shoulders. This is important for me because an old work accident a couple of years ago now makes my left shoulder muscles cramp at particular positions. It's not painful, just feels odd and nagging. I guess if you're cutting the 5'0 height like I am, the II's are the way to go. Someone taller than that can probably manage with the I's and no cable re-routing.
Before and After pics to show the difference:
Stock:
Scootworks Phat Risers II
Stock Risers
The instructions were straight forward, nothing confusing about them. I didn't follow the recommended tips though because I didn't have a bike jack to lift the front end. You have to do this to take pressure off the front end when removing the top triple tree. This would be the fasted way to re-route the cables. I was curious if I could do it a different way, without disconnecting any cables except the throttle. Well I did, and it was time consuming as hell and had me removing the throttle, brake, and headlight assemblies.
This post will be less detailed on each of the steps I took because it's just too long. I needed to use all my hands and I just wanted it done before the rain got heavy so less pics on this. Also, this one is not to be taken alone by anyone with only a very basic understanding of mechanics. It's possible, but I hope at this point you have an understanding of the proper ways to remove/start bolts, preventing stripped bolts, using a torque wrench, the proper way to evenly tighten bolts on an assembly, etc.
In whatever way you're going to approach changing out your stock risers with a required cable re-route, cutting off all the plastic ties holding the cables before anything else makes life so much easier.
Before taking off the risers, I covered the gas tank with a towel, took the headlamp mounting bolts off and covered the headlamp with an old shirt. I also removed the mirrors to make the handlebar lighter. With a screwdriver, I removed the two screws holding the throttle assembly together and removed the grip from the handlebar. Using a 5 mm allen key, I removed the brake assembly but left the brake lever attached. With 10" bolt cutters, I snipped of parts of the wiring bracket mounted underneath the top triple tree holding the brake, clutch, and throttle cables in place. I didn't need them with the new risers as the cables will lose their slack. I put the two assemblies through the triple trees. I had to push the headlamp away a bit for both pass through.
You can disconnect the throttle from either end, at the lever or at the crankcase. I did it at the crankcase, I didn't want to mess with the handle since I had already adjusted it a few times when I installed the Clevver. Disconnecting it from the crankcase, I just took the adjusting nuts off and slid the throttle cable out of the metal holder.
Comparison
After all that, then I removed the stock risers and let the handlebar rest on the gas tank. I installed it according to directions on the package and then put the handlebar on. I tightened it just enough to hold it in place and I connected everything back to the handlebar. I routed the throttle cable behind the triple trees and connected it back to the crankcase. Sounds simple, but since I was working alone, I had to keep re-positioning things so they wouldn't fall or scratch anything which was very time-consuming.
The 3" pullback helps out a lot. I can now bend my elbows and with the handlebar sitting higher, it takes a lot of stress of my shoulders. This is important for me because an old work accident a couple of years ago now makes my left shoulder muscles cramp at particular positions. It's not painful, just feels odd and nagging. I guess if you're cutting the 5'0 height like I am, the II's are the way to go. Someone taller than that can probably manage with the I's and no cable re-routing.
Before and After pics to show the difference:
Stock:
Scootworks Phat Risers II
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Battery Tender Jr.
The most practical mod or addition I've done is hooking up a Battery Tender Jr. to my 650. This should have been the first thing I thought of but I had no idea how quick a motorcycle battery loses potential in just a few days. For around $30 at the auto store, it's paid for itself over and over in just a few short weeks.
It took about 10 minutes to install using a Phillips screwdriver and a 5mm allen key. Don't be too gentle when taking off the cover, that right side needs a solid tug to take off.
Make sure to remove any rings, bracelets, and other accessories from your hands before working near the battery. Familiarize yourself and follow all electrical safety precautions.
Loosen the strap by pulling it downwards then towards you, that should clear the D-Ring at the end from the plastic tab it's hooked to. Take off the two visible wiring connectors by pulling it off carefully from the plastic tabs. Bend the plastic battery cover away from the battery.
Here's how I was taught in Navy "A" school about disconnecting batteries: "Red socks, black boots, which one can you take off first?". Disconnect the black negative cable using a Phillips screwdriver with an insulated handle. Even though the cable is not a threat once it's off, as good practice treat it like a live cable and make sure it doesn't contact any metal pieces. Disconnect the red positive cable from the battery. Treat it like a live cable as well. Take the Battery Tender wire with the red end and insert it over the red cable, then re-connect to the positive terminal. Do the same with the black end over the negative cable. Start threading the screws by hand if you can, that way you are less likely to contact the frame with the screwdriver and make a complete circuit (fry your battery). The upside is there aren't very many metal pieces around the battery compartment to do this with, the 650 Custom is a plastic master piece in this regard.
After taking off the seat, I used two black zip ties to secure the wires under the seat and around the shock. This placed the cables out of the way and I was able tuck them discreetly over the storage compartment or inside it.
Before putting the battery cover back on, you might want to start your bike to make sure you didn't disconnect anything or if you did, that you remembered to re-connect them.
Test out the Battery Tender Jr. by following instructions in the package (plug it in, make sure the light is red = charging). Put the covers back together once you're satisfied everything works properly.
An added benefit is that it comes with jumper cables. You don't need to take off your battery cover when you need to jump start your bike. Just simply hook up the cables the same way as the charger, make sure you keep the black and red clamps away from each other, if they touch you're in for a nice surprise. It also comes with a 7.5 amp fuse to protect your battery in case it's getting too much amps like if jump starting from a running car. It's also small enough to carry inside the compartment. For jump starting, "red socks, black boots" still applies.
UPDATE: Someone kindly pointed out that the cables are switched at this point. If you use the cables, red will actually be ground. Also, the jumper cables should probably only be used when using a battery with a similar rating (jump starting from another motorcycle). If using a car battery, use regular jumper cables for the car.
Now, just plug it in and charge.
It took about 10 minutes to install using a Phillips screwdriver and a 5mm allen key. Don't be too gentle when taking off the cover, that right side needs a solid tug to take off.
Make sure to remove any rings, bracelets, and other accessories from your hands before working near the battery. Familiarize yourself and follow all electrical safety precautions.
Loosen the strap by pulling it downwards then towards you, that should clear the D-Ring at the end from the plastic tab it's hooked to. Take off the two visible wiring connectors by pulling it off carefully from the plastic tabs. Bend the plastic battery cover away from the battery.
Here's how I was taught in Navy "A" school about disconnecting batteries: "Red socks, black boots, which one can you take off first?". Disconnect the black negative cable using a Phillips screwdriver with an insulated handle. Even though the cable is not a threat once it's off, as good practice treat it like a live cable and make sure it doesn't contact any metal pieces. Disconnect the red positive cable from the battery. Treat it like a live cable as well. Take the Battery Tender wire with the red end and insert it over the red cable, then re-connect to the positive terminal. Do the same with the black end over the negative cable. Start threading the screws by hand if you can, that way you are less likely to contact the frame with the screwdriver and make a complete circuit (fry your battery). The upside is there aren't very many metal pieces around the battery compartment to do this with, the 650 Custom is a plastic master piece in this regard.
After taking off the seat, I used two black zip ties to secure the wires under the seat and around the shock. This placed the cables out of the way and I was able tuck them discreetly over the storage compartment or inside it.
Before putting the battery cover back on, you might want to start your bike to make sure you didn't disconnect anything or if you did, that you remembered to re-connect them.
Test out the Battery Tender Jr. by following instructions in the package (plug it in, make sure the light is red = charging). Put the covers back together once you're satisfied everything works properly.
An added benefit is that it comes with jumper cables. You don't need to take off your battery cover when you need to jump start your bike. Just simply hook up the cables the same way as the charger, make sure you keep the black and red clamps away from each other, if they touch you're in for a nice surprise. It also comes with a 7.5 amp fuse to protect your battery in case it's getting too much amps like if jump starting from a running car. It's also small enough to carry inside the compartment. For jump starting, "red socks, black boots" still applies.
UPDATE: Someone kindly pointed out that the cables are switched at this point. If you use the cables, red will actually be ground. Also, the jumper cables should probably only be used when using a battery with a similar rating (jump starting from another motorcycle). If using a car battery, use regular jumper cables for the car.
Now, just plug it in and charge.
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
West Eagle Solo Seat for V Star Custom 650
Since I already took the pillion seat out the day I got the bike, I only needed a 5 mm allen key to take the stock seat out. If you still have the pillion, you can remove it by taking off the nut at the very back of the seat. That's the only thing holding it in place.
650 owners have often voiced their disdain about how the stock seat makes them feel like they're riding on top of the bike instead of the much coveted "in the saddle feel". This seat definitely delivers on that whim. It is so much thinner than the stock, but quite more comfortable.
It truly takes out a lot of the excess padding where I wasn't too crazy about, the sides. With a shortened width and a thinner base, this is what comes into play for reducing the seat height. It didn't really lower it as much as I wanted, but I haven't been able to test ride it yet due to ice conditions. I'll update once I take it for a spin and write about the comfort factor.
For being priced so closely, a stock seat replacement is $149.87 with the West Eagle one at $159, this seat is miles ahead on quality. It's riveted at the bottom instead of stapled and has a steel base instead of fiberglass or plastic.
Sitting on it, the high end back provides a nice lumbar support, very comfortable on the lower back. This might come in handy on long trips when I want to lean back a little.
You can truly appreciate the slimming effect it has on the sides with this view. I'd say it probably took off about close to an inch for seat height.
The only downside I can see with this seat it is doesn't do a thing for my handlebar reach. It actually might have decreased it, but I was already coming up short even on the stock seat. That should take me to my next mod which will be to add some risers.
Stock Seat
West Eagle Solo Seat
650 owners have often voiced their disdain about how the stock seat makes them feel like they're riding on top of the bike instead of the much coveted "in the saddle feel". This seat definitely delivers on that whim. It is so much thinner than the stock, but quite more comfortable.
It truly takes out a lot of the excess padding where I wasn't too crazy about, the sides. With a shortened width and a thinner base, this is what comes into play for reducing the seat height. It didn't really lower it as much as I wanted, but I haven't been able to test ride it yet due to ice conditions. I'll update once I take it for a spin and write about the comfort factor.
For being priced so closely, a stock seat replacement is $149.87 with the West Eagle one at $159, this seat is miles ahead on quality. It's riveted at the bottom instead of stapled and has a steel base instead of fiberglass or plastic.
Sitting on it, the high end back provides a nice lumbar support, very comfortable on the lower back. This might come in handy on long trips when I want to lean back a little.
You can truly appreciate the slimming effect it has on the sides with this view. I'd say it probably took off about close to an inch for seat height.
The only downside I can see with this seat it is doesn't do a thing for my handlebar reach. It actually might have decreased it, but I was already coming up short even on the stock seat. That should take me to my next mod which will be to add some risers.
Stock Seat
West Eagle Solo Seat
Monday, January 3, 2011
Another for the Clutch - Clevver Mod
The Seritec clutch mod works great but halfway through the test ride my left hand kept cramping. It wasn't always a problem but because of playing classical guitar, the cramps have gotten worse over the years. Having tiny hands also makes it harder to manipulate the clutch at low speeds. I heard about the Clevver and how it reduces the pulling effort for the clutch. Gave it a try and it's definitely worthwhile. Here's the view from underneath the clutch handle.
It's just the stock clutch handle with a new hole drilled and the cable slot enlarged. Again, if you want to save money, you can attempt to do this mod with your stock clutch and a reliable drill with good bits. $40 is all right for having the precise measurements and drilling done. Would be safer to do with a bench drill since it does require the hole to be straight.
I had to file the housing down to accept the new lever because if you look at the pic, the new position of the cable end has to pass over the edge of the housing. It's 1/16" too thick to clear the edge hence the slight filing. Models before '09 might not encounter this problem, mine's the only one I've seen with this minor change.
I had to back out the clutch lever adjusting nut almost all the way out just to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged when I pull on the lever. You can tell if you're clutch is not fully disengaging by testing it out:
With the engine running and the bike in neutral, put up the side stand and duck walk the bike carefully. If it's smooth, then carefully shift it to first. You shouldn't feel a sudden lurch. Still in first with the clutch lever pulled in, you should be able to smoothly walk it out like in neutral.
If in neutral there's a drag to the bike when you push it, adjust it before you test it out in first, the clutch is not fully disengaging.
I didn't just do this test in my driveway. After adjusting it properly, I rode it in a safe area for a little bit, did some upshifts and downshifts. After it warmed up, the cable felt a bit looser and I had to do some more adjustments.
This is probably why Yamaha limited the range of clutch adjustments to just the lever free play. An improperly adjusted clutch cable will burn out your clutch faster and it's definitely not safe especially when shifting out of neutral.
Combined with the Seritec mod, it's now possible to adjust the friction zone beyond the clutch lever pulled all the way in. That's why it's important to test it out and tweak it. I had to adjust both ends, the lever adjusting nut as well as the crankcase adjustment by the seritec addition. As well as the clutch fully disengaging when you pull it in, it should also fully engage when the lever is all the way out.
On a note, with both mods installed, my clutch lever doesn't go back out to what used to be the fully engaged position past the free play. At regular operation, it just stops where the free play is supposed to start, but it's already fully engaged. This is because of the new angle the cable takes with the clevver. The free play zone is now more of a "dead" zone. If anyone else has notice this, tell me about because I'm curious as how it acts in different models.
Overall, it did reduce the pull effort significantly and gave me a wider range for the friction zone. Tested it out with u-turn and figure 8's and had vastly improved control with no hand cramping. It becomes more forgiving, plus I only need to release the clutch lever by an inch to get into that sweet spot for tight u turns with a slight throttle and brake control. Hill starts were much easier. If you had problems stopping and taking off on an incline or even just at stop signs, this will ease the pain. Especially for guitar players.
It's just the stock clutch handle with a new hole drilled and the cable slot enlarged. Again, if you want to save money, you can attempt to do this mod with your stock clutch and a reliable drill with good bits. $40 is all right for having the precise measurements and drilling done. Would be safer to do with a bench drill since it does require the hole to be straight.
I had to file the housing down to accept the new lever because if you look at the pic, the new position of the cable end has to pass over the edge of the housing. It's 1/16" too thick to clear the edge hence the slight filing. Models before '09 might not encounter this problem, mine's the only one I've seen with this minor change.
I had to back out the clutch lever adjusting nut almost all the way out just to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged when I pull on the lever. You can tell if you're clutch is not fully disengaging by testing it out:
With the engine running and the bike in neutral, put up the side stand and duck walk the bike carefully. If it's smooth, then carefully shift it to first. You shouldn't feel a sudden lurch. Still in first with the clutch lever pulled in, you should be able to smoothly walk it out like in neutral.
If in neutral there's a drag to the bike when you push it, adjust it before you test it out in first, the clutch is not fully disengaging.
I didn't just do this test in my driveway. After adjusting it properly, I rode it in a safe area for a little bit, did some upshifts and downshifts. After it warmed up, the cable felt a bit looser and I had to do some more adjustments.
This is probably why Yamaha limited the range of clutch adjustments to just the lever free play. An improperly adjusted clutch cable will burn out your clutch faster and it's definitely not safe especially when shifting out of neutral.
Combined with the Seritec mod, it's now possible to adjust the friction zone beyond the clutch lever pulled all the way in. That's why it's important to test it out and tweak it. I had to adjust both ends, the lever adjusting nut as well as the crankcase adjustment by the seritec addition. As well as the clutch fully disengaging when you pull it in, it should also fully engage when the lever is all the way out.
On a note, with both mods installed, my clutch lever doesn't go back out to what used to be the fully engaged position past the free play. At regular operation, it just stops where the free play is supposed to start, but it's already fully engaged. This is because of the new angle the cable takes with the clevver. The free play zone is now more of a "dead" zone. If anyone else has notice this, tell me about because I'm curious as how it acts in different models.
Overall, it did reduce the pull effort significantly and gave me a wider range for the friction zone. Tested it out with u-turn and figure 8's and had vastly improved control with no hand cramping. It becomes more forgiving, plus I only need to release the clutch lever by an inch to get into that sweet spot for tight u turns with a slight throttle and brake control. Hill starts were much easier. If you had problems stopping and taking off on an incline or even just at stop signs, this will ease the pain. Especially for guitar players.
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